tforia

I’ve gone on Gilt several times, and I don’t get how to use the site.

The format of the page is so strange, it’s not like a regular website. It looks like a fancy flash site, but usually, on those flash sites, you never need to scroll since everything is formatted in a way where you don’t need to scroll your browser window. I feel so awkward scrolling and navigating the site.

Alexander McQueen goes on sale tomorrow at noon:

gilt.com

Not that I’m interested, but why do they have to make everything look drab. The very dark shadows and gray background. I guess the grays are used to match the awkward site?

Here’s the same dress on the Spring 2009 runway:

style.com

Not saying the dress looks good, but it certainly looks more fashion forward. (Even if the model looks like some sort of undeveloped fetus–mermaid legs stuck together, hair bound to the skull).

WSJ March 9th, 2010

Confirmation that these head designers are indeed savvy business people.

“LVMH Wipes Céline Slate Clean, Opening Way for ‘Phoebe Effect’”
An article on Phoebe Philo as designer and strategist for Chloe (past) and Celine.

“Céline recruited Ms. Philo 18 months ago. To start fresh, the company destroyed all of the inventory left in the stores prior to her first collection…”

“Despite prices that seem to forget the Great Recession—like $790 platform sandals—Ms. Philo’s utilitarian overcoats, pants and blouses have tight-fisted store buyers ready to spend.”

style.com

‘”I felt it was necessary to establish quality to the brand,” Ms. Philo said in an interview. “Now that we are establishing that and the top of the pyramid is in place, we can open it out.”‘

“Once on board, Ms. Philo and Céline’s new chief executive, Marco Gobbetti, who previously revived LVMH’s Givenchy house, decided to whittle down the brand’s distribution. ”

“”There were too many stores,” Ms. Philo said, dressed head to toe in Céline except for Nike sneakers.”

“I really felt that in coming back into the workplace, and in life generally, if you start small and reduce everything to a point that’s understandable, it gives you a foundation to grow,” Ms. Philo said. “It’s all about Céline being brought back to a focused situation.”

A WSJ article last week (March 5, 2010) discusses the business side of fashion and debates the necessity of a lead designer.

“Ditching Designers to Sell the Clothes
Diesel, Maison Martin Margiela shake up clothes production process, emphasizing teams—and the business side”

After having success with Margiela’s team of designers, Renzo Rosso (Diesel Group’s founder) is doing the same by having an anonymous team design for Diesel.

It’s not necessarily how brilliant a lead designer is nor the expertise they have in sewing/pattern making that makes a brand successful–it’s definitely the style. A collection needs to have the balance of being forward and being what people are seeking. Not all designers are in touch with trends: past, present or future.

‘”The consumer doesn’t care,” Mr. Rosso says, swiping a cigarette from a colleague. “They just want to see the right product at the right moment.”‘

Project runway focuses solely on the designer–as if that is the main ingredient in creating a successful clothing line. If you take a look at Austin Scarlett or Christian Siriano (as fierce as he is), they make beautiful dresses and neat designs, but their ability to be in touch as tastes change is a completely different matter.

That’s what makes Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, and Karl Lagerfeld so special–they’re not merely clothing designers, they orchestrate the inspiration behind the styles every season. As businessmen they are in tune with the demands of the market. According to the article, Diesel’s take is that they’ll hire stylists, who are more in touch with trends and taste, to lead the design process. It’s because of their inability to find someone with both the ability to define trends, and the ability to design. Having someone who is knowledgeable about the craftsmanship of fashion is super important–where do we get inspiration for new silhouettes, forms, shapes–only someone like Francisco Costa can translate those sharp angles and exaggerated shoulders (inspired originally from Ghesquiere’s collections) into something fit for Calvin Klein. Christopher Bailey is another great example. The cutting edge silhouettes he creates season after season, are still tied to the original style that is very Burberry.

To the next top Project Runway Designer–you may sew well, but not sell well.